Tag Archives: Zamora

So Here’s the Deal

So here’s the deal, you guys … in two days, I’m off to Spain. I know, right? What/why? it’s so confusing. It might have something to do with this guy.

He’s pretty awesome! He was hired by a sah-weet law firm, and so we’re moving to Madrid. We won’t eat hot dogs, but we will eat lots of salchichón, That’s a fact.

Right now, these are my emotions:

  • Excited
  • Nervous
  • Scared
  • Crazy

Is “crazy” an emotion? I feel it 24/7. I’m so excited to return to Spain, to marry him, to move with him to a new city (Madrid). I’m nervous to leave behind everything I know. I’m scared to spend 2+ years in Spain. I’m crazy about him. Anything else? I feel it all, la verdad.

Please let me know I’m not alone. What have you done in the name of love? How has it paid off?

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Semana Santa Zamorana

Hey all,

My life has been in a kind of upheaval these past few days, but I wanted to share something with you guys! Zamora was featured on the front cover of the April 6 edition of the Wall Street Journal.

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If you don’t speak English that well, it says: “La adorada más pequeña celebra la época más santa de de la cristianidad.”

I asked Mario if he knew who the little girl was. He didn’t! Darn! I would love to be able to send her parents a copy of this. It was actually difficult to obtain the WSJ in my town. My dad was out and about and couldn’t find it in several different stores. He finally asked the local bank to give us a copy, so I have it in my possession.

Holy Week in Zamora is a big deal. I know, I know, Sevilla and all the other places in Andalucía get all the press. A lot of Mario’s friends get very pumped for this week. If they work in other cities, they come home, of course. There are many traditions associated with it, but I remember the food the most. (What a surprise!) Here are some traditional foods:

  • almendras garrapiñadas—almonds sweetened with sugar. So good your teeth’ll hurt!
  • aceitadas—a type of cookie made with anis. Mario’s mom makes these. Sometimes they get quite hard, but that means they’re good for dipping in your beverage of choice! (Unfortunately, they don’t go well with whiskey.)
  • dos y pingada—this is an almuerzo (mid-morning snack) that’s served on Resurrection Sunday after a procession, La Cofradía de la Santísima Resurreción. It consists of two fried eggs, ham, and bread. Eat up!
  • There are more, but those are the ones I’m familiar with!

I am excited because Zamora doesn’t really get that much publicity. (Isn’t it obvious?) Other places in Spain get all the glory. But I love Zamora! As I saw daily on my walk to school on billboards, I am orgullosa de ser [media] zamorana. 

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These two are real zamoranos. Photo taken in 2011.

Of Little Significance

Have you ever met someone who’s profoundly affected you and then lost contact? Of course you have; we all have. But there are probably dozens more people that—after all’s said and done—ended up as not-that-important. You know, the person you meet on the train or the airplane and have a fun conversation with, but soon forget about, except for every once in a while when you think, Hmm, I wonder what happened to her.

In Spain, I’ve had loads of those sorts of encounters:

  • The Korean lady who ran an alimentación shop in Toledo. Study abroad isn’t really about studying, in case you haven’t heard. Inside the walls of Toledo, there wasn’t even a Carrefour or Eroski, so we did all our late-night shopping there, buying liters of Mahou or boxes of Don Simón sangría.
  • Pablo, a Spaniard, who studied in Cologne. Pablo chose la Fundación José Ortega y Gasset (which we affectionately referred to as “The Fund,” pronounced with the long Spanish “u”) to stay during a vacation. I can’t even remember why anymore. We lived in a renovated convent, and, while it was located in a rather idyllic place, it was still a dorm. We talked about politics (why we had reelected George Bush and whether Obama would be elected), Spanish food, and studying. I don’t remember much else.

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A view from my room.

  • My first intercambio, Carlos. We were a true intercambio—we spoke one hour in English and one in Spanish. Always. He gave me my first insights into the true Spain, not just the idealized version I had read about in books.
  • My Spanish teacher in Salamanca. I can’t remember her name anymore. She at first thought I was horrific at Spanish, but soon realized I am just shy. She finally coaxed it out of me. When she heard I was dating a Spaniard, she told me, “¡Qué bien! Es la mejor manera de aprender un idioma.” Or something like that. I finished my classes with her and never saw her again, except once—through a window. She smiled knowingly, the kind of smile where you realize you don’t have much to say to the other person, but you had indeed shared something.
  • The waiters at this certain bar in Zamora. It was close to my house, comfortable, and free wifi. (Remember, in Spain it’s pronounced wee-fee.) I would usually head there in the late evening, grab una copa de Elías Mora for the ridiculously good price of 2€, and settle down for a nice Skype date (but maybe not as often as my mother would have liked).

People come and go; I’ve come and gone from several different places. We all change, and in some ways we all stay the same. I’m still me, after all. It’s jarring to think of these people, people I laughed with, ate with, talked with … existing somewhere out there without me. They live and go on. So do I.

Do you have these sorts of people in—well, out of—your life?

Say Hello to my Mother: Guest Post

Before I let my mother take the reins, I’d just like to say that I hounded her to do this, and she finally obliged. She wants to be crazy rich and famous, so naturally that means she’ll get her start on Y Mucho Más. You may not realize this, but I’m, like, totally famous. (NOT.)

Here’s Donna. (You may also wish to read this entry, because she’s great.)

Funny how it seems like just yesterday we drove to Chicago to take Kaley to O’Hare airport for her first international flight. She was studying abroad in Toledo, Spain, for the spring semester of her junior year in college. She was so excited. I was jealous but happy for her. I loved the thought of going to Europe and living and studying in another culture. My friends and fellow parents often comment on how it seems that just one generation made the difference in the popular trend of traveling abroad. When I was growing up, it was rare for anyone unmarried or below the age of thirty (old enough to pay for an expensive trip on their own) to study abroad or even travel to another country.

As we said our goodbyes, Kaley never looked back. Her dad and I (especially her dad) had a few tears. I knew I was going to miss my daughter and she too would miss us. She was ready to go and experience the world. I was ready too, because I hoped she would learn to appreciate home.

Kaley made friends quickly, but in some of her early phone calls, she expressed her feelings of loneliness. Once we made definite plans for her father and I to travel to Spain during her “spring break,” she had something to look forward to and quickly acclimated herself to Spanish living. Our Skype discussions were filled with tales of travel and late night escapades. She told us that Spaniards ate dinner late and stayed out late. We found out it was definitely true on our first visit to Spain.

We flew to Spain during Holy Week (the week before Easter). We had the best tour guide, one named Kaley. I bragged that she was so good at Spanish and I insisted she was fluent. She adamantly argued with me that she was not, but two years when later we went back to Spain … she agreed with me that she was indeed fluent in Spanish.

In the late spring of her senior year of college, Kaley accepted an internship with a mission-based group in Salamanca, Spain. She was ready to return to Spain and live for the entire year. In early September we again drove her to Chicago with a one-way flight to Spain. She had insisted she wasn’t coming home for Christmas, as it was too expensive. By the time December rolled around, she had changed her mind and booked a ticket to be with her family during the holidays. We didn’t object too much.

In late September during one of our Skype visits, Kaley informed me that she “accidentally” flirted with a guy. She stated, “I don’t know what to do about it.” She wasn’t supposed to be dating anyone during the internship, per the rules of her workplace. I thought she sounded genuinely concerned that she broke the rules. However, she later was rather pleased that she had broken the rule. In a few short weeks she called to say she was dating this awesome, cute Spanish guy. She was swooning over the phone. As I am a mom, I quickly warned her that dating someone from another country could become very complicated. I think she reverted back to being a teenager at that moment. She exclaimed, ”Oh Mom, that is silly, it is just the same as dating someone in the US.” My response was to quietly say a prayer, as I had always done as I watched her grow up. I asked God to bless whatever was in His will and please don’t break my little girl’s heart. God must have had Mario in His plan because two years later he’s stuck around.

Still here, two years later.

Kaley has spent about two years off and on in Spain. There have been ups and downs. She has been homesick, she has spent more time in the Madrid airport than anyone should have to, and she’s learned to live without the things she loves here in the States. She has been taken into and loved by a wonderful Spanish man and his family. She has learned to cook delicious Spanish food. She has traveled to many places in Europe and learned to appreciate the wonderful history and culture of Spain and the rest of Europe.

This culture includes cheese. Lots of cheese.

As I contemplate the future, I know that Kaley is in good hands. She loves her Spanish family and cannot say enough good things about them. I feel good when I know Kaley has “parents” in Spain. Jesús and Pepita worry about her when I’m not there to do it [Kaley: and cook for me too!]. When she is not in Spain, she misses them like she would miss her family if she were away from them. I want to thank Kaley for bringing Mario into our family. It wouldn’t be the same without him. We feel like we have gained a son as well as a new country.

(Sorry so blurry.)

L-R: Mario, Jesús (Mario’s dad), Randy (my dad), Pepita (Mario’s mom), Carol (my grandma), Donna (my mom), Richard (my grandpa), me

4 Reasons Why I Love Castilla y León (And Why You Should Too)

I am still a member of the Spain auxiliares’ group on Facebook. Why? Good question. I like to take a peek in there every now and then, as the discussion can get entertaining. The latest comment thread I read (it was from November, I think) was highlights and how some poor girl was willing to travel “anywhere” to get them done correctly. I couldn’t really identify, as I’ve never really dyed my hair (that time with a slightly reddish-brown shade doesn’t count; it was barely noticeable), but it was an amusing thread nonetheless.

I joined the 2011–2012 auxiliares’ group back when I was still in Spain. I don’t live there currently, nor do I wish to sound arrogant, but I do know a thing or two about Spain. (Reasons include: study abroad in 2008, internship in 2009, being detained in the airport due to visa issues in 2010, chilling with Mario in Salamanca in 2010 for three months, and a year teaching English in Zamora [from 2010–2011].) Sometimes I felt qualified to answer their questions, so I did. When I was first applying, the group wasn’t that active, and I had approximately a zillionquestions, many of which I just had to find out about on the job.

One thing I notice(d), though, is the lack of love for some regions of Spain. Okay, I get it—you want to live on the beach in Málaga, walk Las Ramblas in Barcelona, eat the best pintxos of your life in País Vasco, live la vida madrileña in Madrid … I do understand.

But why no love for Extremadura? None for Castilla-La Mancha? Or, nearest and dearest to my Spanish-American heart, Castilla y León? I found these questions puzzling—still do. I know, I know: they aren’t glamorous and they aren’t near the airport and you most definitely cannot spend Carnaval on the beach like you can (supposedly) in Cádiz*. But I want you to know that, if you choose one of these regions (or other lesser known ones), there’s no reason you can’t have the best year of your life. Here’s why I love Castilla y León (and why you should too).

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  • The Spanish spoken there is, they say, “pure.” Now, let’s not get into linguistic debates about this because I know all accents have merit and if you can understand a Gaditano, you can understand anyone. But I’ll tell you one thing—these people speak like the people you hear on TV, the news announcers, the academics. I love the accent. (Mario has the best one.) I love the ceceo and leísmo. What’s more, this accent has become the neutral Spanish accent to me, much like the General American Accent is neutral to me in English. I know there’s technically no neutral, but to me, it’s the norm. And I like it.
  • The food. Sure, San Sebastián gets all the good press with good reason. The food there is astonishingly good. Nonetheless, I believe wholeheartedly in the value of a good Castilian meal. I don’t mean what you get in a bar when you’re having a coffee—this is often rather hit or miss. What I mean is the food you get in someone’s home, someone who has taken the time to lovingly prepare a hearty, delicious, and almost always healthy meal. Mario’s mother, my suegra, is a marvelous cook. Her food is, without fail, fresh, delicious, homemade, and (most importantly to any good Spanish woman over fifty) filling. I can’t get through one plate without her asking me if I want more. There usually have to be two denials before she’ll stop asking. She’s introduced me to lentejas, cocido, patatas a la importancia, pescado a la plancha, solomillo adobado, aceitadas, roscón de reyes, pan de queso, menestra, potaje de garbanzos, natillas con un toque de limón, and many more. (Not to mention homemade salchichón, which is my favorite thing. Ever.)

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There’s also meat and potatoes—more my dad’s style

  • The Scenery. There’s much to be said about Barcelona, Madrid, and Galicia (all gorgeous places in their own right), but I’m partial to my adopted home in Spain (no duh, right?). I love Salamanca’s Plaza Mayor, Zamora’s old Roman bridge, Ávila’s Lord of the Rings-style wall, Segovia’s aqueduct. I love the ancient feeling of it all, and this feeling was no strong than whehn I saw the Roman statue of Romulus and Remus in Segovia. Just thinking of the Romans—the Romans!—being there millennia ago gave me goose bumps.

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  • The Heart of Spain. Spain has been stereotyped as the land of bullfights, flamenco dancers, sun, and beaches. When the average person (not Hispanophiles) thinks of Spain, Castilla y León is probably not what comes to their mind. That’s okay because I truly believe what the Lonely Planet says when it states that CyL is “Spain without the stereotypes.” It may not be a place you go expecting to be wowed—and you probably won’t gasp in amazement too often—but it’s a place that will give you a peek into the heart of Spain. This heart of Spain is growing ever older, ever feebler with each passing year, and I fear that much of its everyday magic will soon be lost, forever hidden in the annals of the great libraries. Every year, it seems, there are fewer births—there are few children on the playgrounds, yet the park benches are full of ancianos. They too are a window to the Spain’s soul, a soul found everywhere, but, for me, most vividly in Castilla y León.

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If my grandma can do it, so can you.

You should visit.

2011–To Spain and Back Again

I started 2011 in good old Indiana—my home, my high school stomping ground, the place I always feel the most me.

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Even if it does entail a little snow.

In January, I returned to Zamora, where my high school students still refused to speak to me in English. Not long thereafter, though, Mario and I were off to Belgium.

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Although bitterly cold, it was a magical place full of chocolate, waffles, moules-frites, and French. Luckily, Mario speaks French. (Why can’t I speak four languages?!)

February went by slowly, especially as I was now living in Zamora instead of Salamanca, far away from my studious, always-has-his-nose-in-a-book boyfriend. My 30-minute walk to class could seem interminable. As I had received a Kindle, though, I walked to class reading. My fingers nearly froze off a few times!

March meant heading off to what Mario and his cousins referred to as a primada, a play off the Spanish word for cousins, primos. We headed to a casa rural, a rather common thing to do amongst groups of friends. Our casa was located in Gredos in Ávila.

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A cousin with the kids: A Sergio and two Marías.DSCN1910

We explored a cave.

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Visited a castle. You know, typical Spain stuff.

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Like a fairytale wonderland.

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And, of course, made jokes about smoking “el porro.” (Note: one is smoking a cigarette, one is “smoking” some straw, and the other one isn’t smoking at all.)

April brought sunshine and the first hints of warmth back to the mesetas of Castilla y León. Oh, and my parents stepped foot onto Spanish soil for the second time. My grandparents came along for the ride. And what a ride it was.

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We were “those people” who take photos while our waiter stands and watches.

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We visited Segovia and saw the castle.

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We couldn’t not see the aqueduct. My grandma brought along our local paper.

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Next came the coastal town of San Sebastián, home to some of the worlds best pintxos and food.

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Grandma learned how to sit on benches like any good Spaniard.

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We even got some hiking in.

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Next came Salamanca’s Plaza Mayor with my favorite guy in the whole world.

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We met the parents, too. It was an interesting experience, to say the least. Mario’s parents don’t speak English; my parents don’t speak Spanish. Mario and I were the intermediaries. Nonetheless, they hit it off. My dad even hugged them at the end of the trip – not really something Spanish people do, but it worked.

Next came Semana Santa, my first in Zamora. I got to see what it was like to be a member of a cofradía.

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Los dos hermanos.

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It’s not as frightening as it looks.

In June, Mario and I headed to a wedding held in the most gorgeous place.

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And yes, I’m one inch taller than Mario, but with my high heels I am an Amazon woman.

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We drank and ate lots of pork products. Claro, hombre.

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(L-R) Víctor, Jesús, Pepita, Mario…and me!

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Oh yeah, and we went to London. Typical American, that’s me.

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Mario took me to a hummus restaurant. The man gets me.

Finally, on June 15, I headed to Madrid, cried a ton, and boarded a plane. Landing in Indianapolis felt surreal. It’s become normal by now, but I still think about how, this time last year, I was an international. Now I’m just me, not foreign or different.

I helped my brother and his fiancee move to Houston, TX.

And celebrated the good ole USofA.

Went to a baby shower for my dear cousin, who now has a gorgeous baby girl.

We shared some of the world’s most delicious wine…in my humble opinion.

I started a temporary job teaching English to ESL students in my hometown. It was fine, but I needed more—namely, insurance.

My dog dressed up for Halloween. This is obviously important in my end-of-the-year recap.

In October, however, I was anticipating the arrival of none other than…Mario, of course! My blog posts dropped to about zero as I spent 24/7 with him.

He learned about “American rugby” from my dad. Yes, Indiana does suck at football, why do you ask?

We introduced him to the art of tailgating with pulled pork sandwiches, a vegetable tray, chips and salsa, guacamole, and mojitos. Living large.

He learned what the real sport is in Indiana – basketball. Hoosier basketball. Purdue does not matter.

He’s an expert at roasting hot dogs now.

We got to be all lovey dovey, too

When Mario left, I started a new job back in my hometown. I was lonely, so I got a kitty. His name is Sheldon.

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Bazinga!

I don’t have the Christmas photos at my disposal, but it was spent at home with my mother and father, brother, and his fiancee, Colleen. We made hot buttered rum, played Scattergories, exchanged presents, and saw a nice snowfall. All in all, a good holiday spent with great people.

In 2011, I was blessed. I went from Indiana to Spain to Belgium to Spain to London to Indiana to Texas to Indiana. I was in four countries and lived in four cities (Zamora, Salamanca, Crawfordsville, and now Bloomington). Mario visited me and was able to experience Halloween, football, tailgating, mojitos, and Thanksgiving. We ran many miles together and shared many glasses of (red) wine. He’s gone, and of course I miss him, but it’s a good kind of missing, knowing we’ll be back together soon enough and that we have our whole lives to be together, to annoy the other one, to make dinner together, and to watch The Penguins of Madagascar while laughing until we cry.

2011 was a hard year at times, but it it came with a lot of growth. Living in another country is not usually easy, and when it is, you’re lucky. I struggled at times, but came out better on the other side. I realized a lot of things when I came home, too—namely, that I can survive anywhere. I can and I have and I will again someday. Whatever the future brings for that Spanish boy of mine and me, I’m fine with it. I just know that we’ll be together and we’ll fight these battles together.

And if it takes me cursing in two languages, so be it.

Psst – some of my favorite posts from 2011:

And maybe my favorite post: Very Little. Check it out!

The Language We Speak

Inspired by Rachel’s post, First Language Limits, I got to thinking. (I do that sometimes, you see.)

I love language and thinking about how it affects everything. Some have argued that language is the window through which we see the world and, although the theory is debatable, I like to read about it and wonder how others experience the world.

Image taken from this great article on how language may influence the way we see the world.

For instance, English lacks a strong subjunctive tense. Yes, you should say “I wish I were (an Oscar Mayer Weiner),” but many people say instead “I wish I was.” Now, in Spanish, the subjunctive is ever-present and quite difficult to master. I do it right 95% of the time, but I sometimes get stumped. I don’t get why you wouldn’t use it with “fingir” (to pretend), but you don’t. After years of rote memorization, I finally get it. But explain it? Uhh…

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Anyway, tangent over. I started off this entry wanting to talk about language and how it affects us – particularly, Mario and me. Mario and I met in Spain. I was learning Spanish. (Still am! Amazing how it’s a lifelong process!) I asked him to speak to me only in Spanish. He agreed, as his English really didn’t need that much improving. The only thing he has gotten from me is slang. You’re welcome.

It didn’t last long. When I’m frustrated, the words pour out in English. I think I sound more eloquent in English, surer of what I want to express. They are poor excuses, to be sure, but our relationship was affected by our switch from Spanish to Spanglish. To this day, our relationship is a mishmash of languages.

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From September 2009 to February 2011 to the present – Spanglish.

Sometimes, a whole conversation is conducted in one language with nary a word in the other. Sometimes, we abruptly switch. All it takes is him or me to start speaking the other language – the other will follow suit. Sometimes, we insert whole phrases or words in the other language. For example:

  • Eres muy cute. (Am I the only one who hates using “mono” for “cute”?)
  • Te I love you.
  • We had eggs, jamón, salchichón y queso. Some words just have to be in Spanish. Ham? Not nearly the same as jamón.
  • Vamos a ver una peli en el movie theater.

You know, normal stuff. I’m not really sure if this affects us, but it does expand our vocabularies. Plus, it’s way useful to be able to converse in another language so people can’t understand. After I’ve been around Mario for a while, I sometimes switch to another language with my mom or my friend Hilary so the other people can’t understand, forgetting that, um, neither can my mother or Hilary. Ooooops, Spanglish is getting to me.

So, if you don’t mind, tell me about your bilingual relationships, what you think of them if you don’t have one, and whether you think language affects how we see the world or if that’s all just a bunch of rubbish.

How Going to a New Country Can Change Your Tastes

I used to hate olives.

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I used to hate red wine.

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(I used to be pretty awful at Spanish.) I mean, I took high school Spanish and majored in it. Yet I was still pretty damn bad. How does that work?

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No, but seriously. I was so terrible at Spanish. How does that work?

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Now, however…

I love olives. If you’re in Spain, please go to a bar now. Order some aceitunas pardas. Eat. Enjoy. Thank me later.

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Now, I love red wine. I especially love me some Elías Mora.

Go to Zamora. Go to any wine shop. Any. Find some wine, preferably Elías Mora. You won’t regret it. It was probably one of the wines that convinced me just how good wine can be.

I never have.

I’m actually better at Spanish. (Mario helps a lot.)

Plus, he’s cute.

I can converse with almost anyone, understand almost anyone, and even understand the majority of a soccer broadcast. (¡Hala Madrid!) For me, that’s pretty impressive. Being bilingual ain’t easy.

At the risk of being cliché, how has moving to another country (even if just for a year) influenced you? Do you like that influence?

Spanish Wine 411

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I’ve written about wine before, but let me just get this out of the way:

There is more to the international wine industry than France and Italy.

I mean, Spain is the third-largest wine-producing country (after our dear friends France and Italy), but it’s the most widely planted producing nation. Spaniards drink about 10 gallons of wine per year. You know, probably way less than amount of Diet Coke I drink (I know - it’s soooo bad for me; give it a rest).

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When I first set on Spanish soil, I didn’t like wine or olives. Those two things changed – and fast. And wouldn’t you know, olives and wine make a delicious pairing!

Want to learn more? Read on, friend.

Classification

You’ll usually see the letters DO, meaning Denominación de Origen, or “designation of origen” followed by the name of the place the wine was made. There are other systems, but this is the main one you will see in places like grocery stores, little wine/food artisan shops, and neighborhood cafés. The most known DO is Rioja, and if you’ve had Spanish wine in the U.S., it’s likely Rioja or Ribera del Duero.

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  • Rioja – Rioja actually has a Denominación de Origen Calificada (qualified designation of origin). It’s actually made in the Autonomous Communities of La Rioja, parts of Navarre, and the Basque province of Álava. It has about 14,000 vineyards and 150 wineries. [1]
  • Ribera del Duero - It’s located in Castilla y León, in Spain’s northern plateau. The region follows the course of the Duero river. Here, they produce mostly red wine.
  • Rías Baixas – Located in Galicia, this region produces mostly white wines. In Gallego (the language of Galicia), rías baixas means “low ria,” where “ria” is a long, narrow tidal inlet. They mainly produce the Albariño grape. [2]
  • Jerez – Located in Cádiz, in Andalucía, this region produces jerez, or as we say in English, “sherry.” (Sherry is an anglicization of jerez.) It’s a fortified wine made of white grapes. In Spain, all wine called jerez must come from the Sherry Triangle, an area in Cádiz. [3]
  • Toro – This DO is located in Zamora (!!) and is one of my favorites. I’m biased, of course, but it produces high quality red wines and has been doing so since the end of the first century BC.
  • Others – I’m sorry to give these the shaft, but that’s not to say they aren’t great wine-producing regions: Jumilla (Murcia), Campo de Borja (Zaragoza), Penedes (Barcelona), Rueda (Castilla y León), and Priorat (Tarragona). [4]

Grapes

White wine grapes
  • Albariño – Generally produces light, high acid, distinctively aromatic wines.
  • Malvasia -Used to produce white wines, sweetened wines, this varietal can be found on the Iberian Peninsula as well as the Canary Islands.
  • Verdejo – Used to make strongly oxidized, Sherry-like wine. These grapes are generally harvested at night, which allows for less oxidation, which in turn allows for less browning of the liquid. [5]
  • Viura – Widely grown in the La Rioja region of Spain; used to make mildly acidic and young white wines.
Red wine grapes
  • Tempranillo – This is the main red grape of Spain. Its name often varies from region to region. The grape is called “tinta de Toro” in the Toro region and “tinta fino” in Ribera del Duero. It produces wines that are quite rich in color.
  • Garnacha – This grape is called Grenache in much of the rest of the world and grows well in arid conditions, making it successful in Spain’s often very dry conditions.
  • Monastrell – Originating in Spain, it is known in France as Mourvèdre. It produces strong, dark red wines as well as rosés.

Spanish Labeling Laws

In order to classify them, Spanish wines are often labeled by the amount of time they spent ageing. There are four major categories:

  • Joven – These wines have undergone very little (if any!) aging in barrels. They should be drunk within a year or so.
  • Crianza – Red wines are aged for 2 years. They spend at least 6 months in oak barrels. White wines are aged for a year and spend 6 months in oak barrels.
  • Reserva – Reserva red wines spend at least a year in oak barrels and are aged for a total of at least 3 years. Likewise, Reserva whites are aged for 2 years and spend at least a year in oak.
  • Gran Reserva - These wines are usually better quality. If red wine, they spend at least 5 years aging: 18 months in oak and 36 in the bottle. In a similar manner, if white wine, they must spend 6 months in oak and 4 years total aging.

So You’re Going to a Bar…What Do You Order?

Of course, it’s all a matter of personal taste. Some people profess to not be able to tell the difference between an $8 bottle of wine and a $50 wine. I wish that were true for me, but I do notice a huge difference. I just say no to Two Buck Chuck (although I think it’s Three Buck Chuck actually). I just can’t deal with it – the taste is so insipid.
I say – order what you like. If you love table wine, by all means order it! It’s your party. But I would recommend branching out from your typical Riojas. They are good and you can find very high quality in the region. Nonetheless, there is more to Spanish wine than just Rioja. I recommend trying the Toro region, located in Zamora. Its wine are bold, daring even, with a high alcohol content (sometimes 14.5%!) . It’s also quite tannic, which I love. Here are my recommendations for affordable quality wine from Toro:
  • Elías Mora – I admit, Mario and I love this wine and drink it a lot. If you’re looking for affordable, this is your best bet. It’s cheap (especially in Spain!) and goes down quite smoothly.
  • Bodega Numanthia Termes 2008 – I had this at Tastings, a wine bar located in downtown Indianapolis. Mario has actually never tried it, so I have one up on him! As the site says, it’s a “solid” wine.
  • Gran Colegiata Reserva - Gran Colegiata refers to the main church of Toro, which is not a cathedral. Yeah, I’ve been there. This wine is quite affordable. I drink the regular version a lot. It’s only ~$16 at this point.
  • Matsu Wines – Matsu is the name of a “trilogy” of wines. The young one shows a young man’s face; the middle one shows a middle-aged man’s face; the older wine shows an old man’s face. It’s a brilliant concept and the wine is striking. Each character embodies the characteristics of the wine that takes its name – “The Rogue,” “The Robust,” and “The Old.” The flavor is unmistakable. I remember drinking the Old Man version with Mario’s family.

Also, if you want to be truly Spanish, have some jamón serrano with your wine. Google says so.
[3] Sherry

Zamora

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There are times when a town is more than just a town.

It’s the place you grew up: summer picnics, fireflies, and sprinkler dancing. There, you remember the times you cried in school and came home broken. The times you spent at your friends’ houses, dressed up like Sporty Spice, singing into a hairbrush. The times you spent at school in the hallways, “working.” The times you cheered at the football games for a team that never once won. The times you ran up and down your street in a last-ditch effort to get in shape. The time you wore your graduation gown as your mother took endless photos on the patio. The time you drove off to college, when there was finality in every step you took, every item you packed in your trunk.

It’s the place you went to college: lush green lawns, professors in tweed overcoats, the smell of stale beer at the frat houses. The time you first went to a class, so nervous you thought you might vomit. The times you studied until 2 AM, hyped on caffeine and the I-used-to-have-a-4.0 fear of failing. The times you spent all night having totally deep conversations with the people who would become your best friends. The times you spent gorging yourself on horrible cafeteria food because, hey, it was free. The time you got a paper back with a grade that made you cry. The times you wondered if your ears would be permanently damaged from loud music in a bar. The time you wore a black gown and a red sash and thought to yourself, “What now?”

For me, Zamora is a place that will remain forever locked into my memory. It is not a famous town; it’s not well known outside of Spain, perhaps even outside of Castilla Leon. But it’s famous to me and to my family.

 Zamora, located on a rocky hill in the northwest of Spain, is the city Henry IV called the “most loyal and noble.” Known for its Romanesque architecture and abundance of churches, it is called a “museum of Romanesque art.” Spain’s version of the expression, Rome wasn’t built in a day is Zamora no se ganó en una hora (literally, Zamora wasn’t won in an hour), which references the battles between supporters of Isabella the Catholic and Juana la Beltraneja.

For me, though, Zamora is the first journey I took with Mario, the place I first ate cocido, and first realized I was in love.

 I taught there. The students were surly and unwilling, but surely they learned a little from me. I learned there, too—Spanish and how to survive and why I never want to eat morro. I learned to buy fruit and vegetables from the fruit stores and that expressing myself in Spanish wasn’t so difficult after all.

I ate countless meals there—lentejas and lomo adobado and pollo guisado. I drank little cups of coffee with the skim milk Mario’s mother was always sure to have on hand. I baked for them a few times, which caused Mario’s father to comment that we put chocolate chips in so many things. (True!)

I laughed. I laughed and I cried and I swore things I didn’t always do. I walked miles upon miles around town, people watching. I drank coffee and cappuccinos in dark cafes while using the free wifi. I drank Elias Mora, 2 euros a glass, and ate plates of briny olives. I watched soccer games at friends’ houses while we passed around plates of chorizo, queso, and empanada. I watched as my friends exploded in glee after a particularly important Real Madrid victory. I too jumped up and down, although I didn’t exactly know why.

 I ate in tapas bars, weekend after weekend. We ordered rounds of red wine and cañas, plates of patatas ali-oli and montaditos. We wiped the grease off our faces, crumpled the napkins, and threw them on the floor. A mark of a good place was the presence of numerous napkins on the floor. We chatted; I didn’t always fully understand. I practiced my Spanish, at first haltingly and later with more confidence.

I went to weddings unlike any I had ever known. There were cocktail hours, five course meals, limitless wine, and chaotic dancing to music I’d never heard before. There was raucous laughter and the shouts of children who had stayed up way past their bedtimes. There were even Conga lines. There was, of course, love.

Lots of it.

In short, I’m not Zamora’s best advertiser. It is a lovely city, in the core of Castilla, a place to get lost and remember that not all of Spain is bulls, flamenco, and Sevillanas. In Zamora lurks the heart of a Spain that remembers what many have forgotten—hard times, famine, bitter cold. But there also lurks true grit, people that take you in their hearts and love you truly, people who won’t take no for an answer.

I’m good at saying no, not so good at saying yes. So next time I go, I vow to say yes: yes to more, yes to dancing, yes to laughter, yes to life.

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