Tag Archives: Toro

Bodegas Elias Mora

Two weeks ago, I got the chance to visit my favorite bodega (winery), Bodegas Elias Mora. Thanks to my friend Ángela, who’s the owner/operator’s niece, I felt comfortable enough to attend the Festinto 2012, even though it was technically open to the public. I did learn one thing, though: when they say the party starts at 9, don’t get there until 10, or someone will say to you, “I don’t know who you are.” Don’t be on time, did you hear me?

Oh well, if we’d arrived later, we wouldn’t have gotten as good of photos.

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Although Elias Mora is DO Toro wine, it’s actually located in a village of Valladolid, San Román de Hornija, which has a population of about 425. Thus, the party was mainly for friends/family of the winery, as well as some villagers. I was the only guiri, of course, but we were welcomed with open arms. Mario even got to help bring boxes of wine out for the party. (Because I lead a life of luxury, I don’t carry boxes. No, just kidding—I had my hands full.

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Our view for the night—not too shabby, right?

There was all the wine you could drink, accompanied by delicious quesado curado (a cured sheep’s milk cheese, which is my favorite), bread, chorizo, and desserts. Not bad. Not bad at all.

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Barrels lined with sprigs of rosemary.

Afterwards, they had a local band ready to play all night long, as is typical in Spain, but Mario and I, not being huge partiers or night owls, decided to head home around midnight. We had about an hour’s drive home.

If you ever visit Spain, don’t miss Toro wines. They are distinct from Rioja or Ribera del Duero, some of the most popular wines. I especially recommend Elias Mora, which you can buy here for about €6€8 for the joven bottle. Their crianza and Gran Elias Mora wines are both worth checking out as well, but you’ll have to offer up a bit more money. However, I thoroughly believe their wines are great values, and you won’t regret purchasing them.

Thanks Ángela (and the rest of you at Bodegas Elias Mora)!

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If you’re interested in learning more, please check out the Elias Mora Facebook and Twitter pages, or contact them directly.

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2011–To Spain and Back Again

I started 2011 in good old Indiana—my home, my high school stomping ground, the place I always feel the most me.

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Even if it does entail a little snow.

In January, I returned to Zamora, where my high school students still refused to speak to me in English. Not long thereafter, though, Mario and I were off to Belgium.

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Although bitterly cold, it was a magical place full of chocolate, waffles, moules-frites, and French. Luckily, Mario speaks French. (Why can’t I speak four languages?!)

February went by slowly, especially as I was now living in Zamora instead of Salamanca, far away from my studious, always-has-his-nose-in-a-book boyfriend. My 30-minute walk to class could seem interminable. As I had received a Kindle, though, I walked to class reading. My fingers nearly froze off a few times!

March meant heading off to what Mario and his cousins referred to as a primada, a play off the Spanish word for cousins, primos. We headed to a casa rural, a rather common thing to do amongst groups of friends. Our casa was located in Gredos in Ávila.

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A cousin with the kids: A Sergio and two Marías.DSCN1910

We explored a cave.

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Visited a castle. You know, typical Spain stuff.

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Like a fairytale wonderland.

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And, of course, made jokes about smoking “el porro.” (Note: one is smoking a cigarette, one is “smoking” some straw, and the other one isn’t smoking at all.)

April brought sunshine and the first hints of warmth back to the mesetas of Castilla y León. Oh, and my parents stepped foot onto Spanish soil for the second time. My grandparents came along for the ride. And what a ride it was.

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We were “those people” who take photos while our waiter stands and watches.

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We visited Segovia and saw the castle.

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We couldn’t not see the aqueduct. My grandma brought along our local paper.

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Next came the coastal town of San Sebastián, home to some of the worlds best pintxos and food.

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Grandma learned how to sit on benches like any good Spaniard.

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We even got some hiking in.

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Next came Salamanca’s Plaza Mayor with my favorite guy in the whole world.

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We met the parents, too. It was an interesting experience, to say the least. Mario’s parents don’t speak English; my parents don’t speak Spanish. Mario and I were the intermediaries. Nonetheless, they hit it off. My dad even hugged them at the end of the trip – not really something Spanish people do, but it worked.

Next came Semana Santa, my first in Zamora. I got to see what it was like to be a member of a cofradía.

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Los dos hermanos.

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It’s not as frightening as it looks.

In June, Mario and I headed to a wedding held in the most gorgeous place.

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And yes, I’m one inch taller than Mario, but with my high heels I am an Amazon woman.

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We drank and ate lots of pork products. Claro, hombre.

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(L-R) Víctor, Jesús, Pepita, Mario…and me!

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Oh yeah, and we went to London. Typical American, that’s me.

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Mario took me to a hummus restaurant. The man gets me.

Finally, on June 15, I headed to Madrid, cried a ton, and boarded a plane. Landing in Indianapolis felt surreal. It’s become normal by now, but I still think about how, this time last year, I was an international. Now I’m just me, not foreign or different.

I helped my brother and his fiancee move to Houston, TX.

And celebrated the good ole USofA.

Went to a baby shower for my dear cousin, who now has a gorgeous baby girl.

We shared some of the world’s most delicious wine…in my humble opinion.

I started a temporary job teaching English to ESL students in my hometown. It was fine, but I needed more—namely, insurance.

My dog dressed up for Halloween. This is obviously important in my end-of-the-year recap.

In October, however, I was anticipating the arrival of none other than…Mario, of course! My blog posts dropped to about zero as I spent 24/7 with him.

He learned about “American rugby” from my dad. Yes, Indiana does suck at football, why do you ask?

We introduced him to the art of tailgating with pulled pork sandwiches, a vegetable tray, chips and salsa, guacamole, and mojitos. Living large.

He learned what the real sport is in Indiana – basketball. Hoosier basketball. Purdue does not matter.

He’s an expert at roasting hot dogs now.

We got to be all lovey dovey, too

When Mario left, I started a new job back in my hometown. I was lonely, so I got a kitty. His name is Sheldon.

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Bazinga!

I don’t have the Christmas photos at my disposal, but it was spent at home with my mother and father, brother, and his fiancee, Colleen. We made hot buttered rum, played Scattergories, exchanged presents, and saw a nice snowfall. All in all, a good holiday spent with great people.

In 2011, I was blessed. I went from Indiana to Spain to Belgium to Spain to London to Indiana to Texas to Indiana. I was in four countries and lived in four cities (Zamora, Salamanca, Crawfordsville, and now Bloomington). Mario visited me and was able to experience Halloween, football, tailgating, mojitos, and Thanksgiving. We ran many miles together and shared many glasses of (red) wine. He’s gone, and of course I miss him, but it’s a good kind of missing, knowing we’ll be back together soon enough and that we have our whole lives to be together, to annoy the other one, to make dinner together, and to watch The Penguins of Madagascar while laughing until we cry.

2011 was a hard year at times, but it it came with a lot of growth. Living in another country is not usually easy, and when it is, you’re lucky. I struggled at times, but came out better on the other side. I realized a lot of things when I came home, too—namely, that I can survive anywhere. I can and I have and I will again someday. Whatever the future brings for that Spanish boy of mine and me, I’m fine with it. I just know that we’ll be together and we’ll fight these battles together.

And if it takes me cursing in two languages, so be it.

Psst – some of my favorite posts from 2011:

And maybe my favorite post: Very Little. Check it out!

How Going to a New Country Can Change Your Tastes

I used to hate olives.

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I used to hate red wine.

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(I used to be pretty awful at Spanish.) I mean, I took high school Spanish and majored in it. Yet I was still pretty damn bad. How does that work?

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No, but seriously. I was so terrible at Spanish. How does that work?

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Now, however…

I love olives. If you’re in Spain, please go to a bar now. Order some aceitunas pardas. Eat. Enjoy. Thank me later.

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Now, I love red wine. I especially love me some Elías Mora.

Go to Zamora. Go to any wine shop. Any. Find some wine, preferably Elías Mora. You won’t regret it. It was probably one of the wines that convinced me just how good wine can be.

I never have.

I’m actually better at Spanish. (Mario helps a lot.)

Plus, he’s cute.

I can converse with almost anyone, understand almost anyone, and even understand the majority of a soccer broadcast. (¡Hala Madrid!) For me, that’s pretty impressive. Being bilingual ain’t easy.

At the risk of being cliché, how has moving to another country (even if just for a year) influenced you? Do you like that influence?

Spanish Wine 411

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I’ve written about wine before, but let me just get this out of the way:

There is more to the international wine industry than France and Italy.

I mean, Spain is the third-largest wine-producing country (after our dear friends France and Italy), but it’s the most widely planted producing nation. Spaniards drink about 10 gallons of wine per year. You know, probably way less than amount of Diet Coke I drink (I know - it’s soooo bad for me; give it a rest).

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When I first set on Spanish soil, I didn’t like wine or olives. Those two things changed – and fast. And wouldn’t you know, olives and wine make a delicious pairing!

Want to learn more? Read on, friend.

Classification

You’ll usually see the letters DO, meaning Denominación de Origen, or “designation of origen” followed by the name of the place the wine was made. There are other systems, but this is the main one you will see in places like grocery stores, little wine/food artisan shops, and neighborhood cafés. The most known DO is Rioja, and if you’ve had Spanish wine in the U.S., it’s likely Rioja or Ribera del Duero.

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  • Rioja – Rioja actually has a Denominación de Origen Calificada (qualified designation of origin). It’s actually made in the Autonomous Communities of La Rioja, parts of Navarre, and the Basque province of Álava. It has about 14,000 vineyards and 150 wineries. [1]
  • Ribera del Duero - It’s located in Castilla y León, in Spain’s northern plateau. The region follows the course of the Duero river. Here, they produce mostly red wine.
  • Rías Baixas – Located in Galicia, this region produces mostly white wines. In Gallego (the language of Galicia), rías baixas means “low ria,” where “ria” is a long, narrow tidal inlet. They mainly produce the Albariño grape. [2]
  • Jerez – Located in Cádiz, in Andalucía, this region produces jerez, or as we say in English, “sherry.” (Sherry is an anglicization of jerez.) It’s a fortified wine made of white grapes. In Spain, all wine called jerez must come from the Sherry Triangle, an area in Cádiz. [3]
  • Toro – This DO is located in Zamora (!!) and is one of my favorites. I’m biased, of course, but it produces high quality red wines and has been doing so since the end of the first century BC.
  • Others – I’m sorry to give these the shaft, but that’s not to say they aren’t great wine-producing regions: Jumilla (Murcia), Campo de Borja (Zaragoza), Penedes (Barcelona), Rueda (Castilla y León), and Priorat (Tarragona). [4]

Grapes

White wine grapes
  • Albariño – Generally produces light, high acid, distinctively aromatic wines.
  • Malvasia -Used to produce white wines, sweetened wines, this varietal can be found on the Iberian Peninsula as well as the Canary Islands.
  • Verdejo – Used to make strongly oxidized, Sherry-like wine. These grapes are generally harvested at night, which allows for less oxidation, which in turn allows for less browning of the liquid. [5]
  • Viura – Widely grown in the La Rioja region of Spain; used to make mildly acidic and young white wines.
Red wine grapes
  • Tempranillo – This is the main red grape of Spain. Its name often varies from region to region. The grape is called “tinta de Toro” in the Toro region and “tinta fino” in Ribera del Duero. It produces wines that are quite rich in color.
  • Garnacha – This grape is called Grenache in much of the rest of the world and grows well in arid conditions, making it successful in Spain’s often very dry conditions.
  • Monastrell – Originating in Spain, it is known in France as Mourvèdre. It produces strong, dark red wines as well as rosés.

Spanish Labeling Laws

In order to classify them, Spanish wines are often labeled by the amount of time they spent ageing. There are four major categories:

  • Joven – These wines have undergone very little (if any!) aging in barrels. They should be drunk within a year or so.
  • Crianza – Red wines are aged for 2 years. They spend at least 6 months in oak barrels. White wines are aged for a year and spend 6 months in oak barrels.
  • Reserva – Reserva red wines spend at least a year in oak barrels and are aged for a total of at least 3 years. Likewise, Reserva whites are aged for 2 years and spend at least a year in oak.
  • Gran Reserva - These wines are usually better quality. If red wine, they spend at least 5 years aging: 18 months in oak and 36 in the bottle. In a similar manner, if white wine, they must spend 6 months in oak and 4 years total aging.

So You’re Going to a Bar…What Do You Order?

Of course, it’s all a matter of personal taste. Some people profess to not be able to tell the difference between an $8 bottle of wine and a $50 wine. I wish that were true for me, but I do notice a huge difference. I just say no to Two Buck Chuck (although I think it’s Three Buck Chuck actually). I just can’t deal with it – the taste is so insipid.
I say – order what you like. If you love table wine, by all means order it! It’s your party. But I would recommend branching out from your typical Riojas. They are good and you can find very high quality in the region. Nonetheless, there is more to Spanish wine than just Rioja. I recommend trying the Toro region, located in Zamora. Its wine are bold, daring even, with a high alcohol content (sometimes 14.5%!) . It’s also quite tannic, which I love. Here are my recommendations for affordable quality wine from Toro:
  • Elías Mora – I admit, Mario and I love this wine and drink it a lot. If you’re looking for affordable, this is your best bet. It’s cheap (especially in Spain!) and goes down quite smoothly.
  • Bodega Numanthia Termes 2008 – I had this at Tastings, a wine bar located in downtown Indianapolis. Mario has actually never tried it, so I have one up on him! As the site says, it’s a “solid” wine.
  • Gran Colegiata Reserva - Gran Colegiata refers to the main church of Toro, which is not a cathedral. Yeah, I’ve been there. This wine is quite affordable. I drink the regular version a lot. It’s only ~$16 at this point.
  • Matsu Wines – Matsu is the name of a “trilogy” of wines. The young one shows a young man’s face; the middle one shows a middle-aged man’s face; the older wine shows an old man’s face. It’s a brilliant concept and the wine is striking. Each character embodies the characteristics of the wine that takes its name – “The Rogue,” “The Robust,” and “The Old.” The flavor is unmistakable. I remember drinking the Old Man version with Mario’s family.

Also, if you want to be truly Spanish, have some jamón serrano with your wine. Google says so.
[3] Sherry